Summer of 1845
Immigrants from Switzerland came to Green County, WI & settled in “New Glarus"
In the summer of 1845 immigrants from the canton of Glarus in Switzerland came to Green County, Wisconsin and settled in the village of “New Glarus”. These settlers had little more than the shirts on their backs and a strong determination to carve out a life in the New World. Within a year or so the settlement boasted a small herd of dairy cattle that had been herded west from Ohio and women from local farms were producing cheese primarily from skim milk (cream was used to make butter) at home in farm kitchens. An inventory of livestock in New Glarus Township in 1846 included 18 cows, 15 heifers, and 3 calves. It was a humble beginning for cheesemaking in Green County but the period from 1845-1850 was one of rapid expansion and the stage was being set for a few enterprising individuals to put Green County on the Cheese map in a big way. In 1845 the population of Green County was 93 and by 1850 that number swelled to 1866. Today the Green County population is over 30,000. Because of the importance of the dairy industry in Green County the population of dairy animals on local farms was growing right along with the human population. Much of the early cheese made in cheese houses was called Schola Zieger or “Green Cheese”. These small firm cheese cakes were salted down and were primarily produced for home consumption.
1868
Nicholas Gerber opened the 1st Green County,WI Cheese Factory
There were four individuals who played a very important role in establishing the origin of the Foreign Type Cheese industry of Wisconsin. Nicklaus Gerber born in Canton Bern, Switzerland came to GreenCounty, via New York and Ohio. He is credited with the establishment of the Farmer Factory system in Wisconsin where farmers would deliver their milk to a local cheese factory for purchase. His first factory was located southwest of New Glarus in a log house in 1868. Five farmers hauled milk to the factory to make limburger cheese. Later (1869) Gerber opened up Wisconsin’s first Swiss cheese factory in Washington Township. Over the next several years Mr. Gerber visited his factories on a white horse and buggy and was well liked by the farmers and cheese factory workers. He continued his role until 1893 when he moved to Laverne, Iowa to develop the cheese industry in that area. After several years in Iowa, Mr. Gerber moved back to Monroe and died in 1903 at the age of 67.
1868
1870
The cheese business experienced its greatest expansion
Several other cheese promoters from Canton Bern, Switzerland followed Nicolas Gerber in developing Green County’s Foreign Type cheese business. The cheese business experienced its greatest expansion in 1870-1919 with the leadership of these four gentlemen. Jacob Karlen was a stone mason and cheesemaker who came to Green County in 1872 via New York and Rock County, Wisconsin. He opened a cheese factory in Jefferson Township. After several years Mr. Karlen dominated the local Green County cheese factory scene as an owner, operator and cheese wholesaler. Karlen was a stern negotiator and was noted for his marketing connections which produced very large orders with wide distribution. He built cellars in Monroe to accumulate orders and take advantage of market fluctuations. Karlen was very successful; over the 30 years he spent in Green County, he owned, operated, and wholesaled the production of over 32 factories. He retired in Monroe in 1913 and died at age 80 in 1920.
1873
Knute Olson of Monroe made the first local cheese vat,
There was a continuous influx of motivated immigrants from Switzerland and the eastern states to provide the skilled personnel for both cheesemaking and farming. At the beginning farmland was relatively inexpensive. The majority of the cheesemaking equipment and supplies came by sailing ship from Switzerland. In 1873, Knute Olson of Monroe made the first local cheese vat, replacing cans, dishes and boilers. That same year Green County produced over 12 million pounds of cheese and was the leading cheese producer in the state. Financing was always available as long as the profits were predictable and the market continued to grow. The local dairy herds continued to grow and additional cattle came from the east. First National Bank president Arabut Ludlow accumulated 6-7 wagon loads of Limburger cheese at his bank on the square in Monroe. When customers complained about the aroma of limburger he told the crowd: “This is your future. If you don’t take advantage of it, you will regret it. …This smelly cheese came into Green County and will make our community famous.” Marketing was hard at first as it diluted the effort of the farmer/cheesemaker. With the advent of the cheese factory the marketing aspects were shifted to the buyer/producer. Gottlieb Beller was the first cheese dealer in Monroe and he was followed by many, most of whom had their headquarters in Monroe.
1873
1874
John Boss comes to Green County
John Boss came to Green County in 1874 via New York, New Jersey, and Watertown, Wisconsin. He was associated with Nicklaus Gerber but also represented other factories as a likable, shrewd wholesaler. His headquarters was located on the farm and he stayed there until he retired in Monroe in 1913.
Walnut Grove FctyJacob Regez was a Berner but he spent time as a youth in Normandy and France. After a short stint in Iowa and Green County, Regez returned to Europe to work at a cheese factory owned by his father in France. To avoid the Franco Prussian War, he returned to Green County in 1875 full of youthful enthusiasm and opened a cheese factory in New Glarus. For him to expand his business he needed to concentrate on expanding the region of influence of cheesemaking as all the current factories were controlled by others. He did just that.
1875
Jacob transferred his operation from a farm in Washington Township to Monroe
He organized factories to the west and north of Monroe as well as available areas in the little Richland Valley. He teamed up with his brothers: Ernest, Rudy, and Herman, to eventually own or control 35 cheese factories. After several years Jacob transferred his operation from a farm in Washington Township to Monroe where he continued his business activities until he retired in 1909 followed by his death in 1913.
Many other cheesemaking achievements were happening in Green County and Wisconsin during the period from 1870-1919. The railroad came to Monroe and other towns in Green County in 1857 and it played an important role in the cheese distribution from Green County. Growth of the industry required skilled cheesemakers, equipment, farmers with the appropriate livestock financial acumen and a market.
1875
1877-1898
Monroe was identified as the largest hog shipping point in the state.
In 1877 Monroe was identified as the largest hog shipping point in the state. Local farmers would feed whey, a free or inexpensive cheesemaking byproduct, to their hogs. This improved local farm profits benefiting the local economy. The cheese industry continued to grow but overproduction in 1879 forced prices to drop dramatically.
With the price drop some factories could not make it and others were forced to consolidate and change the way business was done. One successful change was the farm/cheese factory co—op. The farmers collectively own the cheese factory and employ the cheesemaker who supplies the equipment and supplies. The cheese is sold and the cheesemaker earns a percentage and the farmer also earns a percentage based on his farms contribution of the quality and quantity of milk. Despite consolidation and poor prices in the 1880’s the Green County cheese industry continued to grow. By 1898 ten million pounds of cheese were produced in Green County.
1910
222 Cheese Factories now in Green County
By 1910 more consolidations and failures occurred, but there were still 222 factories in Green County (number one county in the state) and 195 more in the surrounding counties of Lafayette, Dane, Iowa and Grant. Another important factor at this time was the introduction of some national companies into the scene: Pet, Phenix, N Dorman Co., Armour, J. S. Hoffman Co., Kraft and Borden all had their footprint in Green County. The addition of condensaries in Brodhead, New Glarus, Browntown and Monroe as well as a large creamery in Twin Grove and a milk plant in Monroe diversified the dairy business in the area but diluted the milk supply which made less milk available for cheese factory expansion. Eventually all these non-cheese plants closed. To improve marketing exposure further consolidation occurred. The Badger Cheese Co., headquartered in Monroe, was a consolidation of seven companies and the sales office for Badger was in New York City.
1910
20th Century
U.S. Economy goes through a severe depression and 2 World Wars
The Golden Age of the crossroad and farmstead cheese factory was ending. At various times in the twentieth century the role of supply vs. demand became apparent, causing prices to dramatically fluctuate. In addition the U.S. economy went through a severe depression and two world wars. For survival cheese factories had to become more efficient and in order to accomplish this it was necessary for factories to concentrate their efforts. Larger, more efficient factories evolved by consolidation and new construction. Less skilled labor was needed as one skilled worker could handle multiple vats. As roads were improved, transportation to and from the factories became easier and faster. Milk routes could be made much farther from the factory.
Hoisting the curdLong term storage facilities were made away from the factory to enable the cheese factory to minimize overhead and allow the factory to concentrate on making cheese and maximizing the yield. Marketing and selling the cheese was in many cases done by cheese dealers. These dealers would develop the markets and coordinate the production and delivery of cheese from factories and/or storage facilities, owned by the cheese factories or others, to maximize profits. Instead of the cheese factory obtaining equipment and supplies solely from Europe, companies were locally created to supply the expanding cheese factory all the necessary consumables and equipment. Lastly, large U.S. firms and talented local entrepreneurs continued their interest in Monroe and Green County, introducing new technology to improve cheesemaking.
1914
1st Cheese Days was held in Green County (Monroe)
In the Golden Age and today cheesemakers exhibited great creativity and hard work. Their dedication and determination to succeed has earned them a significant place in U.S. cheesemaking history. On October 28, 1914, the first Cheese Days was held in Green County (Monroe) to honor cheesemakers and the rich industry making Monroe and Green County, Wisconsin famous. The festival included historical and cultural encounters as well as unique entertainment and fun instructional cheese and dairy experiences. In 1916 a ton of Swiss cheese was used for cheese sandwiches at this festival. Over the years Cheese Days has been a resounding success. By 1935 total attendance was recorded at 50,000. The 100th anniversary of Green County Cheese Days in Monroe hosted over 100,000 visitors.
1914
1925
Green County now had 63,418 Cows
By 1925 Green County had 63,418 cows, one cow to 5 ½ acres and three cows per person. Within a 40-mile radius of Monroe cheese factories produced 84% of the Swiss, 92% of the Limburger, and 10% of the Brick manufactured in the United States. Although area cheese factory totals were reduced from 152 in 1929, to 125 in 1938, 85 in 1948, 25 in 1976, and 16 at present, production and demand increased. This Foreign Type cheese scenario was similar in all of the cheese regions in Wisconsin.
The depression dramatically affected cheese prices. By 1934 Swiss cheese had already hit a low of 10-13 ½ cents per pound and Limburger at 9 cents per pound. That same year Swiss production in the Foreign Type cheese region was 23,200,000 pounds and Limburger production was 5,843,0000 pounds.
1928 - 1948
The cheese brokers help expand the market for cheese throughout the US
The cheese brokers helped expand the market for cheese throughout the United States. Their presence in Green County reached 18 registered by 1928 and 21 in 1948. In addition to continued expansion of the cheese business, other opportunities were created by research and development and technology improvements during the period of 1940-1965. Cryovac vacuum packaging introduced for cheese replaced waxing or other wrapping films. The first Haysen machine (automatic wrapping machine which allowed nitrogen gas flush to improve shelf life) was used in the industry. The rindless Swiss process developed by Kraft allowed Swiss to be made in blocks, and the production of processed cheese by Kraft and club cheese by Swiss Colony created a cheese market for cheese spreads and fully used trim caused by individual cheese wrapping. All of these discoveries and enhancements in technology enabled local factories to further process locally produced cheeses by cutting and wrapping them into consumer sized packages ready to be shipped to the market place. Although nontraditional at the time, these wrapping processes also benefited a local company, The Swiss Colony, to expand shipments of gift mail orders of cheese throughout the USA.
1928 - 1948
1950
Monroe becomes known by the nation to be “The Swiss Cheese Capital of the USA.”
New, larger, and more efficient cheese factories came on the scene in the latter part of the twentieth century. In addition, other factories made investments to improve their operations. Unable to compete, some factories failed. And finally some factories concentrated on creating an extremely unique cheese that was not available elsewhere (artisan cheese).
In 1950 the Foreign Type cheese region, of which Green County is the core, produced 44,205,800 pounds of Swiss cheese and 3,479,000 pounds of Limburger cheese. Monroe was considered the marketing center for Foreign-type cheeses and was the center for quoting prices on Swiss, limburger, and brick cheese. Monroe was also known by the nation to be “The Swiss Cheese Capital of the USA.”
The Green County cheese factories and dairy plants exhibited great flexibility and innovation as the needs and desires of the later 20th century consumers changed and cheese factories were developed in the western part of the United States. In the last 30 years unique artisan style cheeses and dairy products have been in demand and Green County cheese factories have continued to consistently provide the hard work, leadership, quality, and superior product offerings that we have been known for over the past 180 years.
Present
Today there are 16 cheese factories in Green County and the surrounding area
Today there are 16 cheese factories in Green County and the surrounding area, in addition to several conversion factories which cut and wrap. There are several factories that make cheese spreads. The owners and cheesemakers of all of these factories continue to provide the leadership, pride, hard work and innovation that have made the Green County area a premiere representative of the cheese industry in the USA. The cheese factories in the Green County area have won countless state, national and international awards on the unique quality products they produce. All their efforts have resulted in over 200 varieties and types of cheese and a combined total annual production of 200,000,000 pounds of cheese.
Cheese factories of the area have remained very flexible to respond to continuing changes in consumer demand. Swiss, Brick and Limburger cheese continue to be produced in the Green County area; however, other traditional and artisan cheeses now have an important role in the overall cheese offerings of the area. The dairy industry has been in the Green County area since 1830 and today and tomorrow it will continue to carve out its place in cheesemaking history. Through the National Historic Cheesemaking Center, the Green County area and Monroe are honored to represent the national cheese industry and preserve the memories of the early dairy industry and its very humble beginnings in the country.
At the National Historic Cheesemaking Center, the past comes alive as a testimony to….”an era that was …..that will never be again.”
Present
References:
- Apps, Jerry,Casper Jaggi – Master Swiss Cheese Maker, Wisconsin Historical Society Press, 2008.
- Bingham, Helen M.,History of Green County, Wisconsin, British Library Historical Print Editions, 1877.
- Durand, Loyal, Jr. (University of Tennessee),The Cheese Manufacturing Regions of Wisconsin1850-1950, Wisconsin Academy of Sciences, Arts and Letters, Vol. 42, pp. 109-130.
- Hamilton, D.C.,The Story of Monroe. . . Its Past and Its Progress Towards the Present, The PrintShop, Monroe Public Schools, Monroe, Wisconsin, 1976.
- Norton, James and Becca Dilley,The Master Cheesemakers of Wisconsin, The University ofWisconsin Press, Madison, Wisconsin, 2009.
- Odell, Emery A.,Swiss Cheese Industry, Monroe Evening Times Company, Monroe, Wisconsin,1936.
- Tschudy, KimImages of America, Green County, Acadia Publishing, Charleston, South Carolina, 2010.
- Zwygart, Doran,Cheese Central USA, A Chronological History of the Cheese Industry in theGreen County, Wisconsin area, Monroe Cultural Coalition, Monroe, Wisconsin, 2008.
